This cleans the skin so it will better accept the tanning solution. When you’re satisfied you have it all off, place the hide in lukewarm water containing baking soda (1ounce per gallon). This takes some time but the more you get off, the softer your hide will be. Re-soak with baking sodaĪs you soak and re-soak the hide, keep scraping the fat layer off. Keep soaking and squeezing the water out until it’s really soft (don’t wring out the hide). Soaking times vary but don’t soak it too long. Soak the hide in cool water until soft, changing the water often. A 10 gallon plastic garbage can works well. Soak the hideĪfter the hide is cured and all the moisture is out of it (it will kill all the ticks too), you need to find a pretty big, nonmetallic barrel. You can relax now for the next week or so, your work is done for now. Keep it out of the elements and where animals might get to it. It helps to sta nail the hide to a piece of plywood to keep it flat (only nail it at the edges using small nails). Don’t worry, you’re probably pretty worn out from the hunt/field dress so all you need to do is lay out the hide and salt the heck out of it. You’ll need about 15 pounds for a deer hide and it’s pretty cheap at Walmart. The next step is to salt the hide with non-iodized salt. You might have to experiment with what you have. Usually a flat piece of steel with a semi-sharp edge works alright. You can use a big knife but make sure it’s not too sharp. It helps to have a log to lay it over while you work the flesh off. This means getting all of the meat/fat off of it without scraping holes in it or exposing hair. The first thing you want to do is flesh the hide. So, we’re gonna assume that you have skinned out your kill without destroying it.
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